Places
A morning in the Alentejo
Notes from the reservoir walk, the village bakery and the slowest breakfast in Portugal.
The bakery in São Gregório opens at six. By seven the bread is still too hot to cut, which is the best time to buy it.
Down to the water
We walk out through the cork oaks while it is still cool. The track is wide and flat, and the only sound is the cowbells on the far hill.
Most mornings someone swims. Most mornings it is colder than they expected.
Back for breakfast
Eggs from the farm, figs, sheep’s cheese and that bread. Nobody is in a hurry to stand up.
